Burberry row shows why brands must stand by pro-trans messaging

In response to pressure, Burberry quickly pulled the image, appeasing one audience while opening itself up to criticism from another.

The campaign, entitled ‘B:MINE’, is described as a “celebration of intimacy and the small expressions of affection, sentiment and connection between all couples”. The casting of trans models was therefore strategically appropriate and relevant to the Gen Z audience the brand was hoping to engage with and which, according to the recent census results, is twice as likely to identify as LGB+ and most likely to identify as trans or non-binary.

Burberry sparks 'gender critical' backlash over loving ad showing model with double mastectomy scarshttps://t.co/UPgfaC8N6s

— PinkNews (@PinkNews) February 2, 2023

Like their cisgender counterparts, the models are depicted in a loving embrace. However, one of the models has had top surgery, the scars are visible in the image. Top surgery is a gender-affirming procedure undergone by some trans men and non-binary individuals in order to achieve a flat chest, more aligned with their gender identity.

As anyone working in this space (or indeed anyone who has seen what happens when you drop this specific mic) can tell you, visible trans representation elicits a negative response from a small group of vocal individuals who do not believe that trans identities should be represented.

This is something even the most basic risk assessment would have quickly revealed (see Calvin Klein’s 2022 ad campaign featuring a pregnant trans man). I would be very surprised if the Burberry PR team was not anticipating it.

And yet when the backlash came, the brand’s immediate response, rather than stand firm in its commitment to the community, was to pull the image. In one fell swoop the brand highlighted its lack of understanding and commitment, as well as a lack of integrity, which influencer and LGBTQ+ charity Not A Phase’s chief executive, Danielle St James, was quick to point out.

So what might the brand have done to avoid these accusations?

1. Make a strategic decision to be inclusive. Before you even engage trans talent, understand how the campaign fits with the brand values.
2. Protect the talent. Anticipate a negative backlash and put the necessary support systems in place for the talent, so they are not exposed.
3. Stick to your guns. Issue a statement showing solidarity with the community.
4. Check out the competition. Look at similar examples and the response they received, then plan accordingly.
5. Understand your audience. Who are you trying to engage with and how will your actions be received by that audience?

Brands that include trans and non-binary representation for the “likes”, without really understanding why, will cave at the first sign of pushback. In turn, their no-doubt well-meaning campaign will be dismissed as performative.

Doing the necessary groundwork will ensure you avoid undermining the brand among the very audiences you are looking to engage.

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Aby Hawker is chief executive of TransMission PR, the communications consultancy specialising in transgender inclusion and awareness